𝗕𝘂𝘀-𝗕𝗼𝗼𝗸-𝗕𝗲𝘃𝗲𝗿𝗮𝗴𝗲 – Cardiff Bus No.7

“Do you fancy a trip to Penarth?” I asked my wife last week.  She told me she did and even when I told her we’d be going on the bus, the long way round, she was still keen. I’m guessing the fact she’d never caught a bus from the newish Cardiff Bus Interchange that made it sound tempting.

There are buses which go a fairly direct route to Penarth but the No.7 isn’t one of them. It weaves it’s way around Grangetown, diverts up to Llandough Hospital, before weaving again through the streets of Cogan and finally arriving in Penarth almost an hour after starting off.

Cardiff Bus No.7 bus route

You need to be a calm and skilful driver to tackle No.7 route. It goes up and down narrow suburban streets where just one badly parked car could mean the end of the journey. The houses of Grangetown were adorned with Halloween decorations.  I pretended not to be scared and Margaret told me to stop hiding under the seat.

Number 7 Cardiff Bus to Penarth

The bus stopped in Llandough Hospital and the driver turned the engine off and got off.   He disappeared into the hospital, I’m guessing either for a pee or very quick prostate examination appointment.

We arrived in Penarth and were met with rain. That’s wasn’t in the forecast. We walked up to St Augustine’s church.  I was keen to find a few graves I heard were here such as the grave of Samuel Arthur Brain, the founder of Brains Brewery.  Brains SA beer is named him.  

Grave of Samuel Arthur Brain, St Augustine’s Penarth

We were also looking for the resting place of the Welsh composer Joseph Parry.  I’d recently taken my u3a Slow Train Coming group to see his birthplace in Merthyr Tydfil where we sang his song Myfanwy. After a bit of searching I shouted to Margaret I’d found it. “Liar” she said. “No, honestly, it’s over here” I told her.  Turns out she was referring to the lyre, on top of his headstone.

Joseph Parry Headstone at St Augustine Church, Penarth

The rain was hammering down now so we retreated into the café in Belle View Park and treated ourselves to coffee and cake.  When we finished Margaret said she was leaving me which was a bit of a shock after all these years and cruel considering I’d just paid for the coffee.  It turns out she meant she was off to do a bit of shopping and then planned to take the faster bus back to Cardiff.  Lightweight.

Heroic Science at Swansea book by Ronald Rees and Belle View Park Cafe

By now the rain had stopped so I headed down to the seafront via Alexandra Park and onto the pier. This was one of those days where the weather changed every five minutes. 

Alexndra Park, Penarth and Penarth Pier

By the time I had walked along the Esplanade and up onto the cliff top the sun was out and temperature soaring. I nipped into the public conveniences to change out of my long johns (let’s be honest, you wouldn’t read a sentence like that from a young blogger).

I sat on a bench on the cliff top and read. Today’s book was one I’d found in a local book-swap thingy and not one I’d ever expect to find there: Heroic Science: Swansea and the Royal Institution of South Wales 1835-1865.  The first chapter was all about John Henry Vivian who created the copper industry in Swansea. In those early days it was a filthy process, emitting gasses that withered trees and shrubs and turned the grass yellow. Vivian was wise enough to live upwind in Singleton Abbey, now part of Swansea University.  It was especially interesting to me having recently visited Singleton Abbey on a reunion. 

When I was there at university I think I only ever went into the Abbey once and that was to register to do a PhD. They looked at the forms and gave them back to me saying they thought it best if I was applying to do a higher degree then I should probably spell ‘research’ correctly and not resurch. Spelling has never been my strong point which together with other traits such as a fascination with lists, like catching buses in numerical order, probably means I deserve a label.  I’m however quite happy being called ‘a little bit quirky’.

Singleton Abbey, Swansea

Anyway, back to John Henry Vivian. The book told me how he tackled the problem of acrid emissions from his factory by setting up a fund with a prize of £1,000 to anyone who could solve the problem. The problem was taken up by famous scientists of the day including Humphry Davy and Michael Faraday. Whilst Davy liked coming to stay at Singleton Abbey to visit the copper works and then partake in social events such as hunting in the Abbey grounds, Michael Faraday found all that rather irksome. My mind went back to our recent tour of the campus and the Abbey and how we were stood in the same room that Michael Faraday and Humphry Davy had once had their evening meals with the Vivian family.

I strolled back to the middle of Penarth along the old railway track before catching the No.7 bus back to Cardiff where the sun set on another bus-book-beverage adventure.

Penarth Pier Pavillion

Click here to see more Bus-Book-Beverage adventures.

My Dylan Thomas connection

Well, I wasn’t expecting that. It turns out my family has a Dylan Thomas connection.  His great-uncle, the man who inspired Dylan Thomas’s middle name Marlais, was the minister at my ancestor’s church, where my hard of hearing g-g-g-grandfather James used to sit in the pulpit to hear the sermons.  It is also said that the same minister probably inspired the character Rev. Eli Jenkins, in Dylan Thomas’s Under Milk Wood.

 I was looking around the lovely Dylan Thomas Museum on Swansea Marina when for some reason my eye was caught by an open book in a display cabinet.  It was open at a page about Rev. William Thomas (bardic name: Gwilym Marles).  He was the great-uncle of Dylan Thomas or Dylan Marlais Thomas to give the famous poet his full name. 

Dylan Thomas, Swansea Marina

It is said that Dylan’s father decided upon his son’s first and middle names.  Dylan comes from the Mabinogion, the collection of mythical Welsh tales.  Marlais is a derivation of his great-uncle’s name Marles.  In fact Dylan Thomas’s sister also had the middle names Marles.

Rev William Thomas (Gwilym Marles) was a Welsh radical Unitarian minister, poet, school master and political activist.  He led his congregation during the scandalous Llwynrhydowen Lockout of 1876, when they were evicted by the local landowner because of their religious and political views.

Rev William Thomas (Gwilym Marles) – on display at the Dylan Thomas Museum, Swansea

The sentence that had caught my eye in the open book on display at the museum was the first about Rev William Thomas ‘Born in Brechfa, Carmarthenshire in 1834, educated at Ffrwdfal, Carmarthen College and University of Glasgow, took charge of Llwynrhydowen and Bwlchyfadfa in 1860 and in the same year opened a grammar school in Llandyssul, came to the front as a political leader in 1868, became a convert to Unitarianism’.

It was only a few weeks later, the evening before I was about to take a group on a trip to Swansea and to see the Dylan Thomas Museum, did it click into place. 

Bwlchyfadfa, mentioned in that first sentence, is a tiny village in Cardiganshire where my great grandfather Evan Christmas Thomas was born. I’ve visited it a couple of time researching my genealogy.  My g-g-g-grandfather James Thomas is buried there in the churchyard of the Unitarian chapel. The last time I was there I met the present minister who showed me around the chapel and then took me to nearby Llwynrhydowen chapel where we discovered some obituaries in church magazines to my ancestors.

Bwlchyfadfa, Cardiganshire approx equidistant from Cardigan, Aberaeron, Lampeter and Newcastle Emlyn (map credit: Open Streetmap)

The visits were very useful in helping me piece together my family tree. I wrote up my finding in an article ‘It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas’.

Great grandfather Evan Christmas Thomas family tree, Bwlchyfadfa

Having read the fact that Dylan Thomas’s g-uncle Rev. William Thomas (Gwilym Marles) was minister at the Unitarian chapel in Bwlchyfadfa between 1860 and his death in 1879 I went back my notes. He would have been officiating there when my great grandfather Evan Christmas Thomas was born in the village in 1864.

Evan Christmas Thomas (1866-1936)

It appears Rev. William Thomas officiated my g-g-grandmother Mary’s funeral in 1875.  Her obituary makes sad reading. 

Obituary for my g-g-grandmother Mary Thomas, unmarried, in Ymofynydd magazine, with rough translation using Google translate.

It also appears Rev. William Thomas was also due to officiate at my g-g-g-grandmother’s funeral in 1879 but could not due to ill health (he died later that year).

Obituary for my g-g-g-grandmother Elizabeth Thomas, in Ymofynydd magazine, with rough translation using Google translate.

My g-g-g-grandfather James lived to the age of 84 in 1890.  His obituary stated he was hard of hearing and used to sit in the pulpit in order to hear the sermons.  I’m guessing these included sermons of Rev William Thomas (Gwilym Marles) before he died.  

In 1876, the local landowner evicted Gwilym Marles and his congregation from Llwynrhydowen chapel because he disapproved of their “radical” politics (they supported the Liberal Party and electoral reform) and unorthodox Unitarian faith. The eviction caused a national scandal and Gwilym emotionally addressed 3,000 people on the steps of the locked chapel, famously declaring that while the landlord could take their chapel and its contents, down to the candlesticks, he could never take the burning flame – that could never be extinguished.

I am guessing my g-g-g-grandfather James and maybe Evan Christmas Thomas, being a keen Unitarians in Bwlchyfafa chapel, may well have been among the 3,000 people on the steps of the locked nearby chapel Llwynrhydowen.  

Llwynrhydowen Unitarian chapel information board with information aobut Rev William Thomas (Gwilym Marles) and the lockout at the chapel.

Barred from their beloved chapel and the graves of their ancestors, the congregation built a new chapel a short distance away, but Gwilym, defeated by stress and ill-health, tragically died in 1879 aged just 45, before the opening ceremony of the new chapel, where his body was laid to rest.

It is said that Rev. William Thomas (Gwilym Marles) probably inspired the character Rev. Eli Jenkins, in Dylan Thomas’s Under Milk Wood set in the imaginary village of Llareggub.  Reverend Eli Jenkins is Llareggub’s reverend, preacher, and poet. He addresses the town in the poetic daily sermons he delivers from his doorway, and he is constantly writing, thinking about, reciting, and praising poetry and dreams of Eisteddfodau.  Eli Jenkins loves Llareggub, though he knows that there are places more magnificent and exciting than the small village. He’s in the process of writing a book the town called the White Book of Llareggub. Though Jenkins knows Llareggub’s citizens “are not wholly bad or good,” he thinks that God will judge them on their goodness and forgive them their sins, and he sees Milk Wood as a symbol of “the innocence of men.”

When I next listen to Richard Burton reading Under Milk Wood I’ll be imagining my hard of hearing g-g-g-grandfather James sitting at the feet of Rev Eli Jenkins.

There was one more piece in the family history jigsaw that revealed itself during this little bit of research.  Looking at the information board for Llwynrhydowen chapel online it specifically mentions Christmas Evans, the man who I think my g-grandfather Evan Christmas Evans named himself after. I had known Christmas Evans came from the Llandyssul area but hadn’t realized there was such a local connection to Bwlchyfadfa where my g-grandfather grew up.

Llwynrhydowen Unitatian chapel information board – about Christmas Evans. For more information about Christmas Evans see previous blog It’s Beginning to Look a Lot Like Christmas